How to Fix an Oil Pan Gasket on a 1984 Ford Mustang

The oil pan gasket on the 1984 Ford Mustang cracks over time, necessitating replacement. The gasket is rubber, cork or made of RTV silicone and all these materials are subject to heat abuse. Should the oil pan gasket continue leaking, you run the risk of allowing the oil to get too low in the pan and it won't be picked up by the pick-up tube to be distributed throughout the engine, which would then cause metal to rub on metal and, eventually, cause the engine to seize.

• 1

  Remove the fan shroud bolts with a wrench or socket, then push the fan shroud over the fan, toward the engine. Using a line wrench, disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, if your model Mustang has a transmission cooler. Remove the dipstick tube with a socket.

• 2

  Raise the Mustang with the floor jack and support it with jack stands. Slide the drain pan under the oil pan, then remove the drain bolt with a socket. Allow all the oil to drain out of the oil pan. If the pan has a dual sump, be sure to remove both drain plugs and let the oil drain out of both ends of the oil pump.

• 3

  Disconnect the steering flex coupling with a socket, then remove the two bolts that attach the steering gear to the main cross-member. Allow the steering gear to rest on the frame out of the way of the oil pan. Disconnect the power steering hose's retaining clamp from the frame with a socket or wrench.

• 4

  Remove the idler arm bracket bolts with a socket, then pull the steering linkage down and out of the way. Remove the nuts and washers that attach the engine mounts to the second cross-member.

• 5

  Place one of the blocks of wood on the floor jack. Slide the jack under the engine and raise the engine enough to slide a wood block between each of the two engine mounts and the cross-member. Unbolt and remove the torque converter inspection cover with a socket.

• 6

  Remove the four bolts holding the K-brace in, then remove the K-brace. The K-brace is heavy, so support it on two floor jack or have a helper help you hold and lower it down. Remove the oil pan bolts, then lower the oil pan onto the frame. Remove the oil pump attaching bolts with a socket or wrench, then remove the inlet tube attaching nut from the number 3 main bearing cap stud. Lower the oil pump into the oil pan. Remove the oil pan from under the car -- you may have to rotate the crankshaft so the sides of the pan clear the counterweights on the crankshaft.

• 7

  Clean the gasket mounting surfaces on the engine and the oil pan with a screwdriver and rags. Coat the gasket mounting surface on the block with a 1 mm bead of RTV silicone. Allow the RTV to set for two minutes, then press the pan side gaskets on the engine block. Press the front cover oil seal on the cover, making sure the tabs overlap the pan's side gaskets. Press the rear main cap seal, making sure the tabs overlap the pan's side gaskets.

• 8

  Put the oil pump and inlet tube assembly into the oil pan, then slide the oil pan into position under the engine. Position the oil pump on the engine, and put the inlet tube on the number 3 main bearing cap stud. Install the attaching bolts and nut. Tighten the nut and bolts to 27 foot-pounds of torque. Push the oil pan up to the engine, then install the oil pan bolts. Hand-tighten the bolts as far as you can. Starting with the center bolt on each side of the oil pan and working your way out, alternating the bolts on the left and right sides of the center bolts, torque the 5/16-inch bolts to 10 foot-pounds of torque and the 1/4-inch bolts to 8 foot-pounds of torque.

• 9

  Slide the steering gear onto the main cross-member. Install the two bolts and tighten them firmly. Reconnect the steering flex coupling. Have a helper help push the K-frame into place, or using two floor jacks, jack the K-frame into place. Bolt it to the vehicle with the four attaching bolts. Reinstall the torque converter inspection cover.

• 10

  Jack the engine up enough to remove the wood blocks. Lower the engine into the mounts, then install the motor mount washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 55 foot-pounds of torque. Move the steering linkage into place, then reinstall the idler arm bracket bolts. Reinstall the oil dipstick and tube. Fill the crankcase with 4 qts. of oil, then check the oil level on the dipstick. Top off as needed to reach the full mark on the dipstick.

• 11

  Reconnect the transmission cooler lines on the radiator. Pull the fan shroud up to the radiator, then install the attaching bolts.