General Troubleshooting
- 1
Confirm that the refrigerator is plugged in and working. If the cord is plugged in, check at the main service panel for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Replace with new fuse if necessary or flip the circuit breaker back into position.
- 2
Open the freezer door and confirm that the shutoff arm is in the ON position. If it is not, place it in the ON position and check back in 30 minutes to see if the refrigerator icemaker is working.
- 3
Confirm that the freezer temperature is cold enough to allow the icemaker to work. Dial the setting lower if it is set too high. If your refrigerator allows you to set a specific temperature in the freezer, set it for 10 degrees Fahrenheit.
- 4
Turn the shutoff arm to the OFF position the icemaker is producing too much ice. Test for continuity at the ON/OFF switch with a multitester set at RX1 and the probes touching terminals on the switch. The test should indicate continuity through one terminal and resistance through the other. Pressing the button should make the results of the test be reversed. If not, the ON/OFF switch needs replacing.
Water-Supply Troubleshooting
- 1
Unplug the refrigerator and pull it away from the wall. Remove the back access panel. Remove the screws holding the inlet valve to the refrigerator.
- 2
Turn off the water supply at the valve or pipe. Disconnect the inlet valve and drain excess water into a bowl.
- 3
Unplug the wires from the valve and test the solenoid. Set a multitester on RX10 and probe both terminals. The reading should be somewhere between 200 and 500 ohms. If the your reading is significantly lower than 200, the solenoid needs replacing.
- 4
Remove the plant-and-filter screen from the water inlet using needle-nose pliers. Use a toothbrush to wash the screen under running water. If the screen is rusty, it needs replacing.
- 5
Reconnect the inlet valve. Screw the inlet valve back onto the refrigerator. Reattach the back access panel.
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