How2Day: Home Building

Showing posts with label Home Building - Remodeling. Show all posts

5/19/11

How to Clean Particle Board

Particleboard, also referred to as fiberboard, is composed of wood chips or wood shavings resined and compressed together. Although not as strong as solid wood, particleboard is a much cheaper alternative. Carpenters use it to make subfloors as well as cabinets, shelves and dressers. Just like when you clean regular wood, you must avoid soaking or saturating particleboard when cleaning, to prevent water damage.

1

Combine equal parts vinegar with warm water in a small bucket or spray bottle.
2

Wipe down the particleboard with a dry cloth to remove dust and debris.
3

Dip a cloth in the cleaning solution, or spray the cloth using the spray bottle. Squeeze or wring the cloth so it is damp but not overly wet.
4

Wipe down the particleboard with the dampened cloth to remove any residue or buildup. If the cloth is leaving traces of residue behind, it is too wet and you need to wring it again.
5

Wipe down the particleboard with a water-dampened cloth to remove vinegar residue. This is not necessary unless you are sensitive to the smell of vinegar or have cats. Dried vinegar may smell like cat urine to your cat, causing him to urinate or mark his territory.
6

Use a towel to dry any sitting water or obvious dampened spots.

How to Repair a Cracked Screen in a Toshiba Satellite

Laptop screens are known to break easily. This is largely due to the fragile nature of their design. LCD screens are made up of liquid crystal matter that is pressed between two glass plates. If you happen to drop or mishandle your Toshiba Satellite laptop, your screen is likely to crack. When this happens, many laptop users opt to replace the entire computer. But you can replace the LCD screen for a fraction of the cost of a new Toshiba laptop.

1

Power down your Toshiba laptop. Disconnect all power cables and external devices from the laptop. Remove the battery pack from the compartment on the bottom of the laptop.
2

Open the LCD panel as far as possible. Use a small, flat head screwdriver to remove the rubber screw covers from the front of the display panel. Then remove the Phillips screws from the display panel's front bezel. The front bezel is the main plastic piece concealing and protecting the front side of the LCD screen. Remove the bezel.
3

Remove the Phillips screws from each side of the LCD screen. These screws fasten the screen to the metal framing inside the display assembly. Grasp the top edge of the screen and tilt it forward to reveal its back side.
4

Disconnect the large ribbon cable from the connector on the back of the screen. Carefully lift the entire screen out of the display panel. Dispose of the broken screen.
5

Place the new LCD screen inside the empty display panel. Connect the LCD ribbon cable to the connector on the back side of the new screen. Align the screw holes on each side of the new screen with the screw holes on the screen's metal frame. Replace the screen's retention screws on each side of the screen.
6

Replace the front bezel, its retaining Phillips screws and rubber screw covers. Replace the battery and reconnect all cables and devices to the laptop.

Historical Plans of Georgian Homes

According to the National Park Service, the Georgian style of architecture was dominant in the U.S. throughout the 18th century. This period is named for the Kings of England named George, who ruled the country consecutively from 1714 to 1820.

The website Ontario Architecture website notes that three basic principals guided Georgian architecture in North America: symmetry, simplicity and solidity. Georgian buildings were designed with a minimal amount of detai on the exterior and a balanced facade.

The National Park Service website explains that the placement of windows and doors visible from the exterior of Georgian homes were mathematically formulated to express a balance of design features across the exterior of the house. The placement of chimneys also moved from central in the roof (during the earlier baroque period) to a planned placement on the end of the house.

The overall design and plan of a house changed throughout the Georgian period, including aspects such as the style of roof. The National Park Service explains that early Georgian buildings were usually designed with a two sided gambrel roof. In later Georgian architecture, the roof design had changed to a four-sided, equally-sloped hipped roof.

How to Eliminate Seams in Mobile Home Walls

Eliminating the seams in mobile home walls makes the rooms look larger and more finished. Mobile home manufacturers cover walls with panels of vinyl board and fasten them in place with battens. Contractors refer to the battens that cover seams as "batts." Remove batts to expose the raw seams, then use a plaster product or joint compound with drywall tape to eliminate the seams in mobile home walls.

1

Remove the batts from the seams. Batts have brads or tacks that hold them in place over the seams. Start at the bottom of the wall. Slide the blade of a putty knife between the batt and the wall and twist the blade toward you. Continue in this fashion all the way up the wall.
2

Sweep dust and dirt out of the exposed seams to ensure that seam tape will have a secure bond.
3

Apply fiberglass tape over each seam. The mesh-type of seam tape has an adhesive backing. This allows you to tape the seams before having to spread joint compound.
4

Cover the taped seams with joint compound. Contractors refer to this compound as "mud." Hold the putty knife at a 45-degree angle and spread a thin layer of mud over the surface of the tape. Smooth out rough spots and ridges in the mud and allow the joint compound to dry.
5

Eliminate surface blemishes in the mud with medium-grit sandpaper. When the surface of the mud feels smooth to the touch, apply another layer of joint compound and let it dry.
6

Prepare the surface of the dried mud for finishing. Sand it down a final time and decide on a wall covering. The seams will now accept paint or wallpaper of your choice.

How to Prep a Dirt Basement Before Pouring Concrete

A basement just is not livable until it has a smooth concrete slab for a floor. The moisture from the ground will always be coming up and the air will smell like a dirt floor. By pouring a concrete floor, you almost eliminate the moisture problems and get a storage space in short areas or a living area in 7-foot or higher basements.

1

Level out the dirt on the basement floor as much as possible with a shovel and a garden rake. Scrape off the surface of high areas and fill in the low areas. Work right up to the edge of the walls for a straight surface.
2

Bring in 2 to 4 inches of gravel or sand to top off the dirt, forming a surface that it easier to level. Check with your local building codes to see what the requirements are for your area. Drag a 2-by-4 over the layer to level it out.
3

Cover the aggregate with a sheet of the 6mm or thicker polyethylene to form a moisture barrier between the ground and the concrete slab. The sheets must overlap by 6 inches at all the seams and at the edges.
4

Space the No. 4 reinforcement bars every 18 inches across the floor to add extra rigidity to the slab and reduce the chance of cracking over time.

How to Find and Build Log Cabin Housing Kits

Log cabin kits are a home building option considered green and affordable compared to traditional home construction. The allure of the log cabin home is deeply rooted in Americana, and options include everything from the basic log cabin to building a cedar log estate -- the only limit is your budget, land restrictions and your housing necessities. Today's prefab log homes can be built by the homeowner, contractors or the log cabin kit manufacturer, with all necessary components provided for, including the necessary log cabin plans.

1

Develop a log cabin plan. According to Jim Barna Log and Timber Homes, the five major considerations before building a log home are land, design, financing, construction and budget. As for construction, decide if you will construct it yourself, be your own contractor or buy a kit that includes construction. Prioritize your design needs, including size and number of rooms, special bedroom and living area considerations. Also, depending on location, plumbing and electrical issues must be addressed. Many log cabin manufacturers offer a solar-design package.
2

Find a prefab log home that fits your needs. Decide on the construction method and quality of the log cabin kit. According to Cowboy Log Builders, factors to consider are whether you desire turnkey construction and if a manufactured log home is sufficient, or a higher-quality handcrafted log home is preferred. Manufactured log homes can cost up to $170 per square foot, while handcrafted homes can cost up to $200. Cabin Kit Homes emphasizes the quality of prefab log homes versus regular log construction, taking into consideration whether the logs are pretreated and preshrunk. Logs shrink, crack, twist and check as they dry and settle, whereas many log cabin kits preshrink and treat their logs, minimizing future problems.
3

Construct your log cabin home. Even if a turnkey home is purchased and the construction will be handled by the log cabin manufacturer, responsibilities on your part may still exist, such as laying a foundation, accessing necessary equipment, and obtaining building permits. Before committing to a log cabin builder, be sure to cover all the bases and determine your responsibilities and if there are any hidden costs.

How to Remove Water-Based Wax From Wooden Doors

Water-based wax is often used on wooden doors and other furniture or flooring subject to heavy wear and scratching. It provides a considerable amount of protection and a high-gloss shine without the need to buff. When it is time to refinish a wooden door coated with water-based wax, the wax must first be removed with an ammonia-based wax stripper. The process is fairly straightforward. With a few tips and the right tools, the job will be quick, easy and painless.

1

Take the door off its hinges. Start with the bottom hinge and pry up the pin with the help of a hammer's nail remover or a screwdriver. Remove the pin. Repeat with the other hinges (there are normally only two or three) and then pull the door away from the jamb. Place the hinge pins in a labeled plastic bag so they will be easy to find later.
2

Remove any hardware from the door. Most locking mechanisms and door knobs are affixed to the door via screws. Unscrew these and pull off the mechanism. Place the screws and the mechanism in their own labeled plastic bag for easy retrieval when it is time to replace them.
3

Place the door on a sheet of drop cloth or plastic sheeting large enough to accommodate the door, a spot for you to kneel or sit, your wax remover's container and any tools you are working with.
4

Shake the unopened can of stripper to agitate and mix its contents. Prepare the stripper according to its manufacturer's instructions, if necessary.
5

Paint a thin layer of stripper over the top third of the door.
6

Wait the manufacturer's recommended time for the stripper to dissolve the wax -- usually between 10 and 30 minutes.
7

Rub the door in the direction of the wood grain with a scrubbing pad to remove the bulk of the now-loosened wax.
8

Scrape the wax residue off the door and into a dust pan with a squeegee. Throw it away.
9

Wipe away any residual wax with a rag well-moistened with the stripper.
10

Remove any residual stripper with a rag well-moistened with water or the chemical recommended by the stripper's manufacturer to arrest the chemical action.
11

Repeat steps 5 through 10 for the next two-thirds of this side of the door. Continue to the other side of the door.
12

Examine the door. If there is any wax left behind, reapply the remover to those spots using steps 5 through 10.
13

Apply any other finishing techniques (a fresh coat of wax, for example). Replace the door's hardware and put it back on its hinges.

How to Attach Wood Trim With Silicone Caulk or Nails

Wood trim adds a splash of color and a touch of class to any room. Nails can securely hold your trim in place, but they can mar the appearance of the trim by creating holes or protruding out of the wood. Silicone caulk is another way to attach trim to a wall, but it is not as strong as nails. Silicone caulk will not bore holes into your trim, though, and you can simply peel it off the wood if you want to relocate the trim.

1

Measure the wall where you will install the trim. Cut a length of trim 2 inches longer than the wall.
2

Cut the edges of the wood at a 45-degree angle if you have them connecting to another piece of trim at a corner. For inside corners, the back of the wood must protrude past the front face of the wood at a 45-degree angle. For outside corners, the front of the wood should protrude further than the back, also at a 45-degree angle.
3

Sand down the corners of the trim with 100-grit sandpaper. This removes splinters and small chips in the wood, making your trim safer to handle and more attractive.

1

Have an assistant hold the wood trim against the wall. Set a level above or below the trim to ensure it is at the correct level. Adjust it as necessary.
2

Hammer a finishing nail into the trim until it lays flat against the wood. Do not hammer so hard that you leave hammer head indentations on the wood trim.
3

Countersink the nails by hammering them slightly below the surface of the trim with a nail punch. Cover the heads of the nails with wood putty matching the color of the trim.

1

Wash the wall with soap and warm water to help bond the caulk. Grease and dirt can reduce the effectiveness of the caulk.
2

Apply a generous line of caulk to the wall using a caulking gun. Keep the line as straight as possible and only apply it where you want to attach the trim.
3

Press the trim against the line of caulk. Some caulk may leak from the side of the trim as you press it down, but that's OK. Leave a 1/8-inch gap between the trim and the wall so you do not displace all the silicone caulk.
4

Hold the trim in place until the caulk has time to settle. Apply thin lines of caulk to the top and bottom side of the trim once the caulk hardens enough to support the trim without your help.
5

Run a caulk edger along the top and the bottom of the trim to clean away the excess caulk. This creates a solid line of caulk on the top and the bottom of the trim, giving it an attractive, professional look.

5/18/11

How to Resurface & Repair a Marble Floor

Marble is a soft stone compared with other natural stones such as granite. Everyday wear and tear, coupled with home redecorating and moving furniture around, can cause a marble floor to appear dull and scratched. Not everyone has the time every day to use strict preventative measures of cleaning to keep marble floors looking new. By refinishing the marble floor, you can easily bring the surface back to life, while repairing minor scuffs and scratches.

1

Remove everything from the marble floor in the areas where you plan to repair and refinish.
2

Tape over all surfaces you wish to protect with painter's tape. Secure plastic sheeting over baseboards with the painter's tape. The marble stripper can splatter and ruin surfaces where it lands.
3

Mop the marble floor with a microfiber mop to catch all dust, dirt and small particulates.
4

Roll up thick towels into logs, and place them on the marble floor to create a dam to stop the stripping solution from flowing outside of the work area.
5

Pour 1 gallon of water into a mop bucket. Measure 1 cup of common household ammonia, and slowly pour it into the bucket of water. Add 1 cup of vinegar to this water/ammonia solution to create your marble stripping mixture.
6

Spread the stripping mixture inside the dammed area, pouring from the outside corners in. Allow the stripping mixture to sit on the marble floor for 15 minutes.
7

Mop the stripping mixture from the floor, using a long-handled mop and bucket. Continue to mop the floor until all stripping mixture is gone. Rinse the floor with a clean, dampened mop.
8

Attach a diamond sanding pad to the floor buffer. Begin sanding the marble floor with the floor buffer, using side-to-side motions and keeping the floor wet with water if required. Keep the floor buffer at least 6 inches from all walls. Continue to sand the marble, going over the marble floor two to four times.
9

Sand the marble floor in the areas next to the walls where the floor buffer was unable to go with a hand-held sander equipped with a diamond pad.
10

Turn on the wet/dry shop vacuum and remove all the water and sanding grit left behind by the floor and hand-held buffers. Use a clean mop and bucket to give the floor a final rinsing and cleaning.
11

Wipe the surface with a chamois to buff the marble to a polished shine.

Kitchen Ideas for a Narrow Kitchen

Tranforming a cramped kitchen starts with letting in light. Dougal Waters/Digital Vision/Getty Images
Narrow kitchens tend to suffer from poor lighting, badly placed accessories and limited counter space. If it is difficult for you to even move around in your kitchen--much less prepare a dinner there--you may have to break down walls and remodel. However, to transform your narrow kitchen into a room that's workable, use creative organization and decoration to open up the space.

The smaller the kitchen, the more windows it needs. If your kitchen already has a big window, you can let in more light by removing the existing blinds or curtains and installing mini blinds with narrow slats that let in more light. If you are not blessed with a large window, and you have the ability to make one, make the wall at the end of the kitchen a major light source. Arrange a table and chairs in the space to draw attention to the light.

Microwaves, toasters and coffee makers take up counter space and make a kitchen appear cluttered. Reordering kitchen appliances opens the counter space and creates a clean look. If you have a microwave, install it at the same level as the cabinetry. Place the dishwasher between the kitchen table and the sink, where it will be most accessible for cleaning and emptying. If possible, cut a few appliances from the kitchen counter altogether. For example, you can store a small six- or eight-cup French coffee press in the cupboard after you make your morning coffee instead of leaving a bulky electric drip coffee maker on the counter top all day.

Designing a small area for eating at the end or side of the kitchen opens the space. Instead of placing a table in the center of the kitchen, or an island in the middle, adding a nook near the far window or door creates a friendly spot for gathering, eating, sharing and chatting. Adding banquette seating, an L-shaped cushioned bench around the table, replaces the need for extra chairs. A banquette with storage below also comes in useful for a kitchen with limited cabinetry.

Choosing a color scheme unifies the space. A two-toned color scheme, like blue and white or black and white, will open up the narrow room because there are no distracting colors and objects to shrink the space. Neutral colors harmonize the room without making it drab. Tan, blue, pale green, beige, cream and pastels are suitable choices. Choosing a clear glass tile or similarly colored stove backsplash complements the color scheme and creates the illusion of depth and spaciousness.

How to Install 1/4-Inch Round Molding Floor Trim

One of the many uses for 1/4-round trim is as "shoe" molding to extend the bottom edge of baseboard to cover the exposed flooring edge when new flooring has been installed. Whether the 1/4-round is being added as shoe molding or just an additional trim detail, installation is an easy procedure.

1

Measure the length of 1/4-round trim needed for the intended space with a tape measure, then mark this dimension on a length of 1/4-round trim with a pencil.
2

Cut a 45-degree angle in the end of the 1/4-round trim, using a miter saw, if the applicable piece will meet an adjacent trim piece at a corner.
3

Mark the dimension determined in Step 1 on the 1/4-round trim piece and cut the piece to length, using a miter saw.
4

Place the angled side of the 1/4-round trim piece cut in Step 3 against the base of the wall baseboard, with the rounded side outward, and align the end cut of the 1/4-round trim with the corner or end of the wall. Secure the trim board to the baseboard, using finish nails spaced approximately 12 inches apart.
5

Repeat the measurement and cutting method of Steps 1 through 4 to complete the installation of the trim around the room's perimeter.

Solar Power Incentives in Texas

Texas has a property tax exemption for installing solar power systems. ULTRA.F/Digital Vision/Getty Images
Texas homeowners and new home builders looking for solar power incentives have three options: property tax exemptions, utility company incentives and solar net-metering. Green energy advocates see great potential for solar power in Texas, which benefits from year-round sunshine that would allow solar power to be widely implemented. If you are building a new residence or renovating an existing one, these incentives can help you save on energy costs in the long run.

"Greening" your new or existing home with solar energy in Texas allows for a property tax exemption. Texas Tax Code section 11.27 allows a property tax exemption for the appraised value of the property "that arises from the installation or construction of a solar or wind-powered energy device." The tax code also stipulates that the system must be used primarily for on-site energy requirements.

Electrical co-ops and investor-owned utilities provide Texans seeking solar incentives additional opportunities for rebates. Co-ops offering solar rebates are Austin Energy, Bryan Texas Utilities, CPS Energy and Guadalupe Valley Electric Coop. American Electric Power and Oncor Electric Delivery are the only two investor-owned utilities offering their residential customers solar power rebates. Rates and rebates vary by company.

Net-metering is a system of managing energy produced by a renewable energy generator, whereby excess energy is either "banked" for future use or sold back to the utility provider. In Texas, co-op energy companies are not required to offer net-metering; investor-owned utilities credit residential customers for the wholesale value of unused net energy generated.

How to Antique a Frame

Picture frames are made of materials such as wood, which can be distressed to give it an antique look. A picture frame that is antiqued can give a photo a vintage look; especially if the photo is in black and white. Any picture frame material can be made to look antique. Multiple frame sizes can be worked on as a set, or a single picture frame can be displayed as a decorative piece.

1

Take a painted wooden frame and place it on top of a flat table surface. Spread old newspaper around, and place the frame on top of the newspaper. Use 150 grit sandpaper to sand the surface of the frame in raised sections. If the frame is flat, sand in sections only, to give the frame a worn look.
2

Use a small pointy utensil like an old fork, to make pits or indentations in the wood. Get creative and make a pattern, or just randomly jab at the frame in sections with the fork, or scrape. Make sure the fork does not break the frame if the frame is thin or small.
3

Glaze a wood frame using crackle glaze. Follow the instructions on the bottle, and use a medium-sized paint brush to dab on the glaze. Crackle glaze will automatically give the appearance of cracked paint, and add a significant worn look. Repeat glazing if necessary for an even more worn effect.
4

Stain a plain wooden frame with dark stain in sections only, to give the appearance of fading. Use a paint brush or an old rag with an abrasive surface texture, and wipe on the stain in sections. Apply one coat only, so that the stain looks even more faded.
5

Spray paint a plastic or metal frame with eco-friendly spray paint. Use spray paint made for plastic, and spray paint made for metal. Spray in a well-ventilated area or outside. Use gold or silver spray paint, and spray on the entire frame. Spraying the entire surface of the frame will give an elegant antique look, not worn. Let it dry and apply a second coat, for a thicker gold or silver look.
6

Spray on a coat of spray paint in sections, to give the frame an antique look of faded and worn paint. This is easily achieved by spraying over the surface of the frame quickly. Use one coat only, so that the spray paint does not dry thick and look new.

How to Install a Mosaic Tile Backsplash

A mosaic tile backsplash is a great way to update and add style to any kitchen design. Mosaics are available in a wide variety of colors, styles, materials and finishes that can complement any look.

A mosaic is defined as a tile of any material or shape that measures 2 inches or less in size. Mosaics are typically sold in sheets held together by mesh on the back or paper on the front to help facilitate installation. Both types of mosaics install the same way; the paper is removed from the front of the tiles once they are set.

1

Measure your kitchen backsplash. Measure off an area of equal size on the floor or a table nearby. Lay out full sheets of mosaic tile in this area to determine layout. Practice laying the sheets close enough together so the gaps between the sheets are equal to the grout joints inside the sheets.
2

Trim the mesh or paper holding the mosaics together with a razor blade to cut the sheets to fit the edges of the installation. Use tile nippers to cut individual tiles if needed.
3

Spread a small amount of mortar onto the backsplash. Key the mortar with the grooves on the trowel to get the mortar to an even thickness. Use the flat edge of the trowel to flatten out the resulting ridges to create a smooth surface for the mosaics to be installed on.
4

Press the sheets of mosaic tile onto the backsplash area in the same pattern you predetermined. Press the sheets from the bottom to the top, smoothing them upward with your hand. Lay a block of wood against the mosaics and hit the wood with a mallet to beat the mosaics into the mortar evenly.
5

Remove any paper from the front of the mosaics after one hour. Soak a sponge in water and press the sponge to the paper. When the paper is saturated, peel it away from the mosaics. Let the mortar dry for another 24 to 48 hours.
6

Grout your mosaic tile backsplash. Spread grout over all the tiles, pressing firmly with a grout float. A float is a rubber tool that spreads the grout. Hold it at a slight angle to the mosaics and drag the grout into place. Wait 10 minutes for the grout to begin to dry, and wash away the excess with a slightly dampened sponge. The grout will cure completely after three weeks.

Shower Installation Tips

These shower installation tips help to avoid headaches in the future. Buena Vista Images/Stockbyte/Getty Images
Hundreds of dollars can be saved by installing your own shower. However, it's a complicated project and can lead to common mistakes. Some simple errors can cause leaks that are expensive to repair. It's easier to address issues during installation rather than being surprised by something that goes wrong. With thorough preparation, you'll be ready to complete the project correctly while dramatically reducing problems down the road.

Many people overlook the importance of a liner for the shower pan. It's not rare to see showers installed with cheap plastic or no lining at all. This can cause water leaks and cracks in the shower pan. To avoid these problems, place a liner made of vinyl or PVC sheeting on top of your shower pan.

Most people are aware that tiles on a shower floor should be sloped toward the drain but it's important to slope the shower pan as well. A flat base prevents draining and causes water to accumulate. According to BuildIQ.com, a flat base can also lead to mold. (See References 1)

Extra care must be used if you're connecting pipes made from different materials. Metals can have reactions with each other. For example, galvanized steel pipes commonly found in older homes corrode much faster when they touch copper. Plumber Terry Love says to connect galvanized and copper pipes, you can use a dielectric union, a connecting device that keeps the two metals separated and prevents electric charges from transferring. Love warns that while a dielectric current is an option, it's not as ideal as uniform pipe material because it interferes with the pipes being electrically grounded and does not completely eliminate corrosion.

Most shower fixtures attach to 1/2-inch pipes. Avoid using pipes that are too small. While smaller pipes increase the water pressure and make the water move faster, the pressure coming from the shower head depends more on the amount of water going through it. Small pipes allow less water to go through the shower head, causing a weaker stream.

Clogged pipes can be a source of frustration. Some people try to avoid the problem by installing larger drain pipes for their showers. While the idea seems logical, it can actually lead to the pipes being even more clogged. When water moves through smaller pipes, there is more pressure and it moves faster. This helps dislodge debris that could start a clog. While larger pipes have more room for water and debris to move through them, the lower pressure makes it harder to fix when the pipes do get clogged.

While you have the water turned off during shower installation, air pockets can form in the unused pipes. When you turn the water back on, the water pushes these air pockets through your pipes at high pressure. If you don't clear the air out of your pipes, it will push through your faucets when they are used. Any stray debris in your pipes will hit your faucets at high pressure, which can cause damage or clogs. Fixthehome.com says you can bleed the pressurized air and debris out by flushing a toilet.

How to Install a Tile Baseboard in a Bathroom

We usually think of baseboard as being lengths of wood that sit along the bottom of the wall, bordering the floor. However, a baseboard can also be a row of tiles, which is a good way to do it in a bathroom, since wood can soften and rot in a wet environment. The idea is to line up bullnose tiles (finished on one edge) along the bottom of the wall, side by side, with the finished edges facing up to form the border.

1

Draw a horizontal line along the bottom of the wall, up from the floor by the height of a tile plus ¼ inch, using a tape measure, level and pencil. If the tiles are 6 inches high, the line should be 6 1/4 inches up from the floor.
2

Draw a vertical line at the center of the horizontal line, extending from the line to the floor.
3

Spread tile mastic along the length of the bottom of the wall, below the horizontal line, from end to end.
4

Set the first two bullnose tiles in place on either side of the vertical line, under the horizontal line, pressing them into place in the mastic and putting two spacers between them. Position the tiles so the finished edges are facing up. There should be a ¼-inch space between the bottom edges of the tiles and the floor.
5

Press the rest of the tiles in place all along the bottom of the wall, building out from the middle to the sides. Keep the finished edges lined up under the horizontal line, so they form the upper border of the trim. Cut the end tiles as necessary on your tile cutter. Let the mastic set overnight and pull out the spacers.
6

Grout the tiles with a grout float, pressing it into the lines between the tiles. Don't grout the space between the bottom edges of the tiles and the floor. Wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge. Let the grout set for a day.
7

Caulk the space between the bottom edges of the tiles and the floor. Let it all set for another day.

Types of Soft Floorings

Carpet is a popular soft floor covering. Roy McMahon/Brand X Pictures/Getty Images
A soft floor covering is manufactured as a roll or as flexible tiles, its flexibility distinguishing it from hard floors such as stone or ceramic tile. Soft flooring is a popular option for many people because of its comfort and wide range of colors and textures. Knowing the different options will help you make the best choice.

Carpet is a widely used soft floor covering made of wool, nylon, and polyester. It is available in a broad range of colors and patterns. It can also be purchased in different depths of pile -- the length of the material used to create the texture. Because carpet is laid on top of a soft pad about half an inch thick, it is flat and even, regardless of whether the subflooring is level or not.

Linoleum is a natural floor covering made from linseed oil and pine resin, fillers such as cork dust, and jute or burlap backing. Like carpet, it is available in an extensive array of colors, patterns and textures. In addition, linoleum is manufactured in matte and polished finishes. It has a naturally anti-bacterial surface and is available in tile or sheet form. Tiles are helpful for rooms with complicated shapes, as each tile can be individually and accurately cut to size.

Vinyl is a man-made flooring made of polyvinyl chloride, more commonly known as PVC. Because it is durable and waterproof, it is deal for wet areas such as kitchens and bathrooms. It is available in a variety of colors and patterns, including faux wood and stone effects. It is easy to lay but prone to damage from heavy objects dragged over it. Like linoleum, vinyl is available in tiles and sheets.

Cork is a natural product that is ideal for wet areas because of its inherent water and stain resistance. It is available in natural shades of pale to dark brown, as well as green, gray and blue. It is a comfortable and environmentally friendly flooring often used in commercial buildings because of its high level of durability.

How to Sand Uneven Hardwood Floors

Hardwood floors that are newly laid will have small variations between the boards and some unevenness in the wood. Before you finish the flooring, you need to even out that surface. A rented drum sander is the easiest way to do it. The general process is generally the same as stripping off the finish from an old floor for refinishing: grind down the surface with rough sandpaper; use finer sandpaper to smooth it out. Dust gets everywhere, so make sure to seal off the room, including closing the heating ducts.

1

Knock down any raised nail heads on the floor with you hammer and nailset.
2

Load the drum sander with its roughest paper (20- to 40-grit). Set the sander so the paper is off the floor, using the raising lever or tilting back the machine, depending on the model. Turn on the sander and let it get to top speed. Set the paper to the surface and begin moving it immediately.
3

Run the sander in a direction diagonal to the direction of the floorboards, letting it grind down the variations between the boards and any uneven areas. Don't let the sander stand in one place at any point while it's running.
4

Vacuum the floor of all dust.
5

Set up the drum sander with medium-abrasion paper (60- to 80-grit). Repeat the sanding process, but run the sander in the opposite diagonal direction as before, evening out the uneven edges of the boards that weren't fixed by the first sanding, and smoothing out the surface.
6

Vacuum. Run the sander a third time, with the finest level of paper (100- to 120-grit), going with the direction of the boards. It should get the floor flat and smooth.
7

Vacuum thoroughly.

Types of Key Blanks

Keys blanks come in various shapes and sizes. ICHIRO/Digital Vision/Getty Images
Locks are commonly used for security in a wide range of applications, from the front door of your house to your car door and trunk to your bank safety deposit box. When setting up a key duplicating business, you will need an assortment of key blanks in order to provide your customer with a duplicate that matches the original. Each key blank serves a specific purpose and some may require special equipment to be cut.

As the name suggests, flat keys are flat on both sides. These keys are usually made of steel or silver nickel. Flat keys are typically used for safety deposit boxes and luggage locks.

Corrugated keys are similar to flat keys but have corrugations or grooves along the length of sides. Corrugated keys are commonly used for padlocks and desk drawers.

Cylinder keys are one of the most popular keys in use today. They are typically used with pin tumbler locks as well as disc tumbler locks. These locks are found on the front door of your home, and on your car door and trunk. Car key blanks are categorized by car make.

Four-sided keys are also called "cruciform" keys because they fit into a cross-shaped slot. Unlike other key blanks, the four-sided key is cut on four sides as the name suggests. You will need to use a special key duplicating machine capable of cutting this type of key in order to duplicate it.

Dimple keys are used in pin tumbler locks. Dimple key blanks are usually flat and rectangular. They are called dimple keys because they are cut by means of cone-shaped indentations or holes drilled into the surface of the key.

Transponder keys are car keys that have a computer chip embedded on the head of the key for added security. These chips are programmed to transmit a signal to the on-board computer of a car that will recognize the key's unique signal and allow the car to start. When duplicating, in addition to cutting the key, the transponder key chip must be programmed for the key to be used for that particular vehicle.

How to Create Designs in Cedar Shakes

Cedar shakes -- also called "shingles" -- can be used for roofing or in place of vinyl siding on a home. Just like any natural material, cedar can come in a variety of shades and colors. While most cedar has a reddish tint, the precise tone can vary greatly from one piece to another, giving the creative do-it-yourselfer an opportunity to incorporate patterns and designs into their project.

1

Purchase your cedar shakes or shingles from a home improvement store. If you are looking to use the shingles on the exterior of your home, you may want to make sure they are all the same size. This will improve not only the aesthetic uniformity of the design, but it will also minimize the number of gaps between shingles, making the exterior surface more durable over time. If your design will be inside a structure, you can select shingles of different sizes, as waterproofing won't be as crucial.
2

Look for shingles in a variety of tones and shades. Some shingles may have an almost "strawberry blond" look; others may be a dark brick red. A range of colors and shades will give you the most options for your design.
3

Separate the shingles into different colors and shades, so you know how much of a single color or shade you have.
4

Come up with the design you want to use. This will depend greatly on the availability of different colors and shades in your shingle selection. You may choose to alternate rows of light-colored shingles with rows of dark-colored shingles, whether horizontally, vertically or diagonally. Instead of simple patterns, you may want to create an actual picture or image. You can create a smiley face by using darker colored shingles as the face's eyes and mouth, and using lighter colored shingles as a background.
5

Arrange the shakes onto the desired surface (or a flat surface, if the shakes' ultimate destination is a vertical wall or sloping roof). This will give you an idea of how the finished product will look.
6

Remove all the shakes from that surface, and arrange them once again based on color and shade. You may even want to make a mark on the back of each shingle that describes where it will be placed in the overall design.
7

Nail the shingles into place one at a time, using a hammer. You will want to place the shingles starting at the very bottom of the surface (for example, at the bottom of a wall instead of at the top). This will help with water drainage.
8

Stop intermittently to check your work. You might not see the pattern or image take shape right away, but if you planned accordingly, it should develop over time as more and more of the shakes are hammered into place.

5/19/11

Symmetry

Balance

Roof

Preparing the Trim

Installing Trim with Nails

Installing Trim with Silicone Caulk

5/18/11

Let in Light

Organize Appliances

Breakfast Nook

Color Scheme

Property Tax Exemptions

Utility Rebates

Net-metering Options

Shower Pan Liner

Slope the Base of the Shower Pan

Pipe Materials

Pipe Size

Drain Pipe

Turning On the Water

Carpet

Linoleum

Vinyl

Cork

Flat Keys

Corrugated Keys

Cylinder Keys

Four-sided keys

Dimple Keys

Transponder Keys